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August 02, 2023 12 min read
Applying hair oil before washing your hair may seem like an unnecessary step, but it can actually have a big impact on the health and growth of your hair.
From nourishing the scalp to preventing breakage, there are many benefits to incorporating pre-wash hair oiling into your haircare routine.
It’s also a great excuse for a relaxing head massage! Keep reading to learn more.
What is pre-wash hair oiling?
Pre-wash hair oil is a type of hair treatment applied to the hair and scalp before shampooing.
Inspired by the Ayurvedic tradition of hair oiling, this product is typically made from natural oils such as coconut, argan, or jojoba oil, and is designed to nourish and protect.
Here's what most people don't realise: washing your hair isn't just cleansing. It's actually causing damage. Every single time.
And no, we're not suggesting you stop washing your hair (please don't!). But understanding what's happening during the wash cycle explains exactly why pre-wash oiling is so effective.
When hair gets wet, the hair shaft swells. The cuticle layer—think of it like shingles on a roof—lifts and becomes vulnerable. Then when you shampoo, the surfactants in your cleanser strip away natural oils, and the mechanical action of scrubbing causes friction.
The result? Protein loss.
A 2001 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science found that hair loses protein during the wash cycle, particularly when using harsh surfactants. This protein loss leads to:
Your hair is literally made of keratin protein. Every wash strips some of it away.
When you apply oil to dry hair before washing, you create a protective barrier. Here's what happens:
1. Oil penetrates the hair shaft
Certain oils—particularly coconut, argan, and macadamia—have small molecular structures that can penetrate inside the hair shaft, not just coat the outside. They get in there and reinforce the structure from within.
2. The oil creates a hydrophobic barrier
This barrier prevents excessive water penetration during washing. Less water swelling = less cuticle lifting = less protein loss. It's like waterproofing your hair before dunking it in water.
3. Reduced hygral fatigue
"Hygral fatigue" is the technical term for the damage caused by repeated swelling and de-swelling of the hair shaft. Every time your hair gets wet and dries, it expands and contracts. Over time, this constant cycle weakens the structure. Pre-wash oiling reduces this damaging pattern.
4. Friction reduction
The oil lubricates the hair, reducing mechanical damage from scrubbing and tangles. Your hands can glide through hair more easily, causing less breakage.
The most comprehensive study on this was conducted by P.G.V. Pande and published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science. The research compared hair treated with coconut oil, mineral oil, and sunflower oil before washing versus untreated hair.
The findings were striking:
Argan oil showed similar results in later studies, with the added benefit of high Vitamin E content providing antioxidant protection.
Interestingly, mineral oil (a petroleum derivative) showed minimal protective benefits—which is why we never use it in our formulations. Natural oils with smaller molecular structures performed significantly better.
Pre-wash oiling works because it's applied to dry hair, allowing maximum penetration. Post-wash oils (leave-in treatments) primarily coat the outside of the hair shaft but can't penetrate as effectively because the hair is already saturated with water.
Think of it like waterproofing your boots before going out in the rain versus trying to waterproof them while they're already soaking wet. Pre-emptive protection always works better.
This is also why slathering oil on wet hair after washing doesn't deliver the same results. You're applying it at exactly the wrong time in the cycle—after the damage has already occurred.
Pre-wash hair oiling isn't some trendy beauty hack. It's a scientifically-backed method of preventing damage that would otherwise occur during the wash process. You're not just adding moisture—you're fundamentally protecting your hair's structural integrity.
Which is exactly why this ancient Ayurvedic practice has stood the test of time and is now supported by modern research.
Pre-wash oiling isn't just about adding moisture—it's about fundamentally protecting your hair during the most damaging part of your routine: washing. Here's what it actually does.
Your hair is made of keratin protein. Every wash strips some away. Pre-wash oiling creates a protective barrier that reduces this protein loss by up to 40% (according to research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science). Less protein loss means stronger, more resilient hair and noticeably less breakage.
Every time hair gets wet, it swells. Every time it dries, it contracts. This constant expansion and contraction damages the cuticle layers over time. Pre-wash oiling limits water penetration, reducing this damaging cycle. The result? Less frizz, fewer split ends, and hair that holds styles better.
Wet hair is up to 3 times weaker than dry hair. Oil lubricates strands, reducing friction from shampooing, detangling, and towel-drying. You'll notice easier detangling and significantly less hair in your brush.
Oils with anti-inflammatory properties (peppermint, rosemary, argan) soothe irritation and provide deep scalp moisture. Combined with the circulation boost from massage, this creates optimal conditions for healthy hair growth. Less itchiness, reduced flakes, healthier scalp overall.
Oils rich in fatty acids smooth down raised cuticles, creating a sleeker surface that reflects light beautifully. This is what gives you that noticeable shine—light can finally reflect off smooth, sealed cuticles instead of rough, damaged ones.
High-quality hair oils deliver concentrated doses of vitamins (especially Vitamin E), omega fatty acids, and antioxidants directly to your hair. Our Organic Hair Renewal Oil contains prickly pear seed oil (highest Vitamin E of any oil) and sacha inchi (rich in omega-3s) for maximum nourishment.
Scalp massage during application boosts circulation, delivering more nutrients to follicles. Ingredients like rosemary and peppermint have been clinically shown to stimulate follicles—rosemary performed comparably to minoxidil in a 2015 study. Expect reduced shedding within 4-6 weeks and potentially improved growth over 3-6 months.
For colour-treated hair, the protective barrier reduces colour molecule loss during washing. Your expensive salon colour will last weeks longer, with less fading and fewer brassy tones.
By smoothing cuticles and balancing moisture, oiling tackles the root causes of frizz. Hair becomes more manageable and polished, even in humid weather.
All these benefits work together: improved moisture balance, sealed cuticles, and reduced damage make hair more cooperative. Easier styling, better hold, less time fighting with your hair each morning.
Each benefit builds on the others. When you prevent protein loss, cuticles seal better. When cuticles seal, you get more shine and less frizz. When you nourish your scalp, follicles produce healthier hair.
It's a positive feedback loop. The longer you practice pre-wash oiling, the better your results become—which is why consistency matters so much.
Your choice of hair oil depends on your hair type and specific needs. For example, if you have dry or damaged hair, you may want a heavier oil like sesame or macadamia oil. If you have fine or oily hair, a lighter oil like argan or camellia oil may be more suitable.
When formulating our Organic Hair Renewal Oil, we envisioned a potent yet lightweight blend of ingredients proven to improve hair quality.
Along the way, we uncovered haircare secrets from around the world – and incorporated them into this multi-award-winning elixir.
Although we used a mix of weights with our oil, with some heavier oils like macadamia which binds to the hair shaft to leave it more robust and healthier, we balance this with beautifully light oils like Sacha inchi, an Amazonian-sourced oil that is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which help to quench and hydrate dry hair, and make it super-shiny.
Just some of our hero ingredients are Camellia oil (a favourite with Japanese geishas), Argan oil (cherished by Moroccan women for its calming, shine-boosting properties) Sesame oil (revered in Ayurvedic medicine), and ultra-hydrating Sacha Inchi from the Amazon. Peppermint and Rosemary essential oils are also included for its growth-boosting properties (leave the hair oil on overnight if you are using it to stimulate healthy growth).
You can read more about the best oils for growth and thickness here .
Whichever type of hair oil you choose, we recommend high-quality formulas free from harmful chemicals and additives. And be sure to check for silicones - which you definitely to NOT want but are very common.
What is the problem with silicones you may be asking? In short, they may give hair the illusion of shine, thanks to the plastic in these synthetic materials it's only an artificial shine – not a shine borne from light reflecting off healthy, properly hydrated hair with properly sealed cuticle layers.
Healthline have an article which states: “Over time, silicone can also build up on your hair, resulting in a dry feel and dull appearance. You may even notice that your hair becomes weaker and more prone to breakage. And if you're using a form of silicone that isn't water-soluble, it can be really hard to remove it with a regular wash."
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Regain strong, luscious, healthy, shiny hair with our multi-award-winning hair oil that is 100% natural!
Formulated using ancient secrets steeped in beauty history – and confirmed by modern science – our Organic Hair Renewal Oil is:
The ultimate multi-tasker – you can use it as a pre-conditioning treatment, an overnight hair growth treatment, and daily to smooth frizzy hair or repair split ends.
Here's a quick overview of the process—watch the video demonstration below for visual guidance on these techniques in action.
1. Start with dry, detangled hair
Oil penetrates dry hair much better than wet hair (water and oil don't mix). Gently detangle first to prevent pulling when you massage.
2. Section and apply to scalp
Divide hair into 4-8 sections depending on thickness. Apply oil directly to your scalp along part lines using your fingertips.
How much oil:
- For short hair, use 1-2 teaspons
- For medium hair, use 2-3 teaspoons
- For long or thick hair, use 3-4 teaspoons
3. Massage thoroughly (don't skip!)
This is the most important step. Use your fingertips (not nails) in small circular motions. Cover your entire scalp for a minimum of 5 minutes, ideally 10-15 minutes. This boosts circulation, helps oil penetrate, and stimulates follicles.
4. Distribute through hair length
Work remaining oil from your hands through mid-lengths and ends. Focus extra attention on the ends—the oldest, most damaged part of your hair.
5. Leave it on
Leave pre-wash hair oil on for a minimum of 30 minutes or up to 1-2 hours.
For maximum benefit, put your hair in a loose bun or braid or cover with a silk scarf and leave it on overnight before washing hair in the morning.
6. Wash out properly (critical step!)
Here's where most people go wrong. Do NOT wet your hair first.
The right way:
1. Apply shampoo to dry, oiled hair
2. Work it through to emulsify the oil
3. Add a little water to create lather
4. Rinse thoroughly
5. Shampoo again (usually necessary)
6. Condition as normal
This technique prevents the greasy residue problem most people experience.
7. How often should you use pre-wash hair oil?
Be guided by your hair type and the condition of your tresses when deciding how often to incorporate pre-wash hair oiling. If you have dry or damaged hair, once or twice a week could be beneficial.
For oily hair, once every two weeks may be enough. It's important not to overdo it as too much oil can weigh your hair down.
Our tip? Start by using a small amount and gradually increase as needed.
Here are the 3 ways you can use your oil to keep your hair, shiny, healthy and strong.
Watch now to see these techniques in action and discover how to make the most of your Hair Renewal Oil.
Mistake: Applying to wet hair
Oil and water don't mix. Apply to dry hair for proper penetration.
Mistake: Using too much oil
Start with 2-3 teaspoons. More isn't better—it's just harder to wash out.
Mistake: Skipping the massage
The massage boosts circulation and helps oil penetrate. Set a timer for 10 minutes—this step is half the benefit.
Mistake: Wetting hair before shampooing
This is why the oil "won't wash out." Apply shampoo to dry, oiled hair first. Work it through to emulsify, then add water.
Mistake: Giving up too soon
Results take 6-12 weeks minimum. Hair changes slowly. Commit to 12 weeks before deciding if it works.
Mistake: One-size-fits-all approach
Fine hair needs less oil and shorter time. Thick hair can handle more. Adjust for your hair type.
Hair still greasy after washing?
Use clarifying shampoo. Next time: use less oil and apply shampoo to dry hair first.
Hair feels dry and straw-like?
You over-shampooed. Deep condition immediately. Next time: use sulfate-free shampoo and only shampoo twice.
Scalp feels itchy?
Stop immediately. You may be sensitive to an ingredient. Try a different oil or patch test first.
Oil too thick/solid?
Warm the bottle under hot water for 2 minutes. Coconut oil solidifies below 24°C.
Weeks 1-2: Foundation
Hair feels slightly softer. Washing feels gentler. Scalp more comfortable. Don't expect dramatic changes yet—you're building a foundation.
Weeks 3-6: Early Results
Less hair in brush and shower drain. Noticeably softer, easier detangling. Slight shine improvement. Ends feel less brittle. This is when you start thinking "it's working."
Weeks 8-12: Visible Transformation
Significantly shinier hair. Dramatically less breakage. Improved texture and manageability. Fine baby hairs at hairline. People start commenting. This is your before/after moment.
Months 3-6: Long-Term Benefits
Thicker-looking hair from retention, not breakage. Continued strength improvements. Less need for styling products. Hair in best condition possible.
Key Reminder: Everyone's timeline varies based on starting point, hair type, and consistency. Hair grows about ½ inch per month—even with immediate improvements, it takes time for healthier growth to become visible length. Be patient and consistent.
| Treatment | Purpose | When | Penetration |
Frequency |
| Pre-Wash Oiling | Prevent wash damage, protect structure, add moisture & repair | Before washing, dry hair |
Deep (into hair shaft) |
1-3x per week |
| Deep Conditioner | Add moisture, repair |
After shampooing |
Medium |
1x per week |
| Hair Mask | Intensive treatment |
After shampooing |
Medium-deep |
1-2x per month |
| Leave-In Oil | Surface protection, shine |
After washing, damp/dry hair |
Surface only |
Daily as needed |
Key Point: These treatments complement each other—they're not competing options. Pre-wash oiling prevents damage during washing. The others add moisture and protection after washing. Use them together for comprehensive hair care.
Q: Can I use coconut oil from my kitchen?
A: You can occasionally, but formulated hair oils work better. They combine multiple beneficial oils at tested ratios, include properly diluted essential oils, and are designed for hair penetration and stability.
Q: Will it make my hair grow faster?
A: It won't change your genetic growth rate (½ inch per month), but it helps you retain more length by preventing breakage. Ingredients like rosemary and peppermint also stimulate follicles. Expect less shedding within 6-8 weeks and visible length retention by 3-6 months.
Q: Can I leave it on for days?
A: No. Maximum 8-12 hours (overnight). Longer attracts dirt, can clog follicles, and makes hair greasy.
Q: Will it make dandruff worse?
A: Usually helps! Dandruff is often from dry scalp. Oiling provides moisture and anti-inflammatory benefits. Exception: if you have seborrheic dermatitis, check with a dermatologist first.
Q: Pre-wash vs leave-in oil—which is better?
A: Different purposes. Pre-wash penetrates deeply and prevents damage during washing. Leave-in coats the surface for shine and heat protection. Use both for complete care.
Q: How often should I do this?
A: Depends on hair type. Dry/damaged: every wash (2-3x weekly). Normal: 1-2x weekly. Fine/oily: once every 7-10 days. Start with once weekly and adjust.
Q: Safe during pregnancy?
A: Carrier oils (argan, coconut, jojoba) are generally safe. Essential oils (rosemary, peppermint) are more controversial. Consult your doctor. When in doubt, use plain carrier oils only.
Q: Can kids do it?
A: Yes! Great for kids with dry, tangled, or textured hair. Use gentle oils only, avoid strong essential oils, and make it fun with a head massage. Shorter processing time (30 minutes) is fine.
Weeks 1-2: Foundation
Hair feels slightly softer. Washing feels gentler. Scalp more comfortable. Don't expect dramatic changes yet—you're building a foundation.
Weeks 3-6: Early Results
Less hair in brush and shower drain. Noticeably softer, easier detangling. Slight shine improvement. Ends feel less brittle. This is when you start thinking "it's working."
Weeks 8-12: Visible Transformation
Significantly shinier hair. Dramatically less breakage. Improved texture and manageability. Fine baby hairs at hairline. People start commenting. This is your before/after moment.
Months 3-6: Long-Term Benefits
Thicker-looking hair from retention, not breakage. Continued strength improvements. Less need for styling products. Hair in best condition possible.
Key Reminder: Everyone's timeline varies based on starting point, hair type, and consistency. Hair grows about ½ inch per month—even with immediate improvements, it takes time for healthier growth to become visible length. Be patient and consistent.